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Mas de Gourgonnier

Salt of the earth is humble. It’s simple but essential. It’s always been there. And maybe always will be. It’s not showy but it has something naturally beautiful that’s hard to capture. 

Of course, most of the growers that we work with could be described as salt of the earth. They show up day in and day out to work the land. They contend with nature and all of her untamable weather- moods and beauty.  Many of them, though, are lucky enough to work very prestigious soils that collectors from the whole world seek out. Salt of the earth can only but enhance the Caviar of terroirs. Rare and beautiful but maybe not for every day. 

The Cartier family is the kind of salt of the earth that has zero pretense. Their wines reflect that in every sip. Les Baux de Provence is a rare appelation, only 11 estates are part of the appelation just south of Avignon in the Alpilles part of Provence (Alpilles literally means mini Alps). There is much more limestone here than most other parts of Provence that makes for freshness in the wines despite their southern accent. And Garrigue. Garrigue is one of these un-translatable French words that is elusive because it evokes so many things. It hits you like the sound of the cicadas as soon as you step outside. It’s in the warm air as you breathe it in. It’s dry and crunchy beneath your feet. A mixture of herbs that grow wild all over the hillsides and has a funny way of finding itself in the aromas of the wines. The mistral wind blows so hard sometimes that only the bravest plants manage to cling to the hillside. Rosemary, Thyme, Fennel, mint, lavender. It’s all there. 

The exact grape variety blends of the wines differ from year to year but it’s mainly Grenache, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Mourvèdre. The appelation of Les Baux de Provence included Cabernet Sauvignon from its inception. Although it's surprising for this part of the world, I find that the inclusion of Cabernet allows the wine to have a wild, southern complexity without the high alcohols of so many of the other Rhone and Provençal wines. 

I’ve worked with the Cartier family at Mas de Gourgonnier for nearly 25 years and drink these wines when I want reasonably priced, resonating pleasure. Not complicated but complex enough to be interesting. 

The rosé is really a summer-time obvious choice. It simply goes with everything. From aperitivo, bruschetta, anything you grill on the BBQ all the way to the strawberry desert. I always have a cold two on hand (from experience one is not enough). The rosé holds up well for a few years. 

The red is a blend that my team and I make with the Cartier family every year after tasting through every single tank and cask. We always want a hint of garrigue of course, it’s a quality that usually increases with time. Black olive. Purple plums. Sometimes a little bit of truffle. It begs for grilled pork or roast lamb ideally with some North African influences like mint and cumin. And it ages gracefully as you would expect from the salt of the earth.